Overview"This high but minor summit is frequently and easily climbed from the Static Peak Divide (10,760') and is an excellent objective for hikers of the Alaska Basin Trail. A small, dying glacier lies at the base of the steep and crumbly north face of this peak, immediately south of Timberline Lake. A triangulation station was established on the summit of Static Peak in 1946 by Curtis LeFever of the U.S. Coast and Geologic Survey." (Ortenburger Guide to the Tetons).
There are four routes mentioned in Leigh Ortenburger's Climber's Guide to the Teton Range. There are two Class 1 routes to the top (Southwest Ridge, East Ridge) and two more technical routes.
Southwest Ridge: Most common. See route page.
East Ridge: Class 1. Approach from upper Stewart Draw.
North Face: 5.4 See Ortenburger guide. The guide says that this face is generally loose.
North Ridge: 5.1 The Ortenburger guide provides little information, other than to say to expect loose and unsound rock.
Static Peak is a good peak for climbers visiting the Tetons who need a "rest" day or don't have a partner for the day. It can be done car to car in anywhere from 6 to 9 hours for fairly fit hikers or climbers. The standard approach is to take the Death Canyon trail to the Static Peak Divide (all on good, well marked and worn trail) and then climb straight up the SE face on a faint trail to the summit. This section is steep but still quite easy. See the route page for more information.
The view of the Grand from Static Peak's summit is an interesting and unique perspective, as seen here in BSIHLER's photograph. |
Getting ThereTo reach the Death Canyon Trailhead from Park H Q at the village of Moose, drive south on the narrow and winding Moose-Wilson road for 3.1 miles and take the signed, paved turnoff road to the trailhead. This road is rough but I did see a few passenger cars up there. They must have taken it slow. There is not a ton of elevation gain on this road, so when it gets terribly rough toward the end, I would just park and walk the last few hundred meters and save your suspension, if you are in a low-clearance vehicle.
Red TapeOvernight permits are needed for camping in the backcountry, but otherwise no permits or regulations exist for climbing in Grand Teton National Park. A fee per car is charged to get to the trailhead I believe, and it is suggested that you pack out all waste. Standard leave no trace ethics preside, in spite of the huge trail that you will be following. Please also be aware that you are in bear and moose country and that Death Canyon is a fairly common place to see Moose.CampingThere is camping available around the park, including at Jenny Lake, Gros Ventre campground and elsewhere. The best lodging for climbers is the American Alpine Club Climber's Ranch, located south of Jenny Lake inside the park. This offers primitive accomodations for $12 a night, including a shower, toilet, cooking area, sinks, access to guidebooks and an extensive library of outdoor literature, and other climbers. Bring your own bedding though, and a mattress if you are delicate, because the wood bunks are hard.
Please see the Teton range main page for more information on camping and accomodations at the Climber's Ranch.Miscellaneous InformationAlthough this peak is relatively straightforward to ascend, climbers should still use common sense. An earlier start is recommended so that you are off the peak by the afternoon. No need for a true alpine start, but heading up at 11 am might not be the best idea. They don't call it "Static Peak" for no reason, and I was there when clouds began to move in at around 2:30 pm. There is some water available along the trail, although park rangers recommend you don't drink any water in the backcountry without treating it. There is a trickle that crosses the trail high up after the fork in Death Canyon that is probably safe to drink from because of its elevation and because few--if any--people camp above that point. Still, bringing your own water would be advised. Images
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