| Brownstone Wall North, 5.6-5.11b Mountain/Rock |
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| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Nevada, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 36.11640°N / 115.4933°W Activities: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter | Page By: Dow Williams Created/Edited: Apr 3, 2008 / Apr 4, 2008 Object ID: 393748 Hits: 431 Loading... Page Score: 89.39% - 18 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview/Approach
Some of the best quality rock and hardest lines in Red Rocks are located back in secluded Juniper Canyon at Rainbow and Brownstone Walls. The several hour approach is considered quite long by Red Rocks standards, thus these routes become ideal objectives when the park is crowded. I climbed on Brownstone Wall on a Saturday, with perfect weather, during Red Rock Rendezvous without another party on the entire wall at 10:00 AM, north or south. Unlike Rainbow Wall, Brownstone faces southeast and soaks up the sun for much of the early day during the spring. For climbing purposes, the wall is discussed in two sections, the North and South. The south Brownstone Wall is bordered on the left by Gunsight Notch which connects it to Rainbow Wall at the head of Juniper Canyon. The north Brownstone Wall ends at the summit of Juniper Peak, a common scramblers objective. There is an obvious cleft in the middle that separates north from south. Imperfections continuing north along the wall produce more features on the north Brownstone Wall versus south. Brownstone Wall North has a minimum of nine (2008) published routes ranging from the 5.6, “Birthday Cake” to the far right (north) to the 5.11b, “Ten Minute Shift” to the far left. None of the lines exceed 750’ of actual climbing and most are relatively new, put in as late as 2006.
Park at the Pine Creek trailhead. There are two approaches to Juniper Canyon. Either hike down the main Pine Creek trail and traverse around the old home site to intersect Oak Creek Trail, or locate a more indistinct trail at the Fire Ecology Loop. They both require crossing Pine Creek ascending up to the south bank. In any regard, you hook into the Oak Creek trail and leave it at any number of trails that make their way towards the left hand corner of Jackrabbit Buttress. Avoid crossing the Juniper Creek Wash to the south. Stay on the north side until you are forced to drop down into Juniper Canyon and scramble your way up the wash until you catch a trail on your right that leads up on loose ground to a large flat vegetated area below slabs to the northwest that lead up to the Brownstone Wall. Continue following a trail until it leads you onto large talus. Scramble up the talus to the large low angled slabs above, angling right to the base of the north Brownstone Wall. There were plenty of cairns to follow in 2008.
Another option, and one I recommend, is to either climb Geronimo or Myster Z and then hike along slabs to the base of the north Brownstone Wall.Route Description(s)The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the North Wall
The Choclateers- 750’- 5.10b/
Ten Minute Shift- 345’- 5.11b/
Hueco Thanks- 450’- 5.7/
Sand Castle- 405’- 5.10c/
Mayday Malefactor- 705’- 5.10c/
Sweet Thin- 730’- 5.9/
Armatron- 750’- 5.9/ Armatron is located in the center of the north end of the north Brownstone Wall. On the right side, there are prominent patches of dark varnish among a sea of lighter colored rock. Armatron climbs the middle portion of this varnish and can be easily identified via 5 bolts on the first pitch. Even though it is rated 5.9, the 3rd and 4th 5.6 pitches are the attraction of the route and what makes Armatron so incredibly unique. You are basically climbing on natural Brownstone bricks that look manmade for almost a full 300’. The first two pitches are sustained on fantastic rock as well. The 5th -6th pitches are quite uneventful and you can rap from any pitch, except the 5th, if you so desire, however, the route does take you to the top of a subsidiary peak just south of the summit of Juniper Peak where there is a summit log (2008) as well as a walk off option. Many, including Jerry Handren’s guide book, have you thinking this is a 5 pitch route, but if you are going to the summit, you will have to climb a short portion of the last pitch of Requiem for a Tadpole.You can climb Myster Z on Jackrabbit Buttress and thus bypass much of the approach. Supposedly it is only a 10 minute walk between topping out on Myster Z (5.7) and the base of Armatron.
Requiem for a Tadpole- 670’- 5.9+/
Birthday Cake- 350’- 5.6/These are all trad lines and will require an assortment of gear as spelled out in Jerry’s Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide”. Most lines are relatively new with bolts protecting the cruxes and/or run out portion. The routes leading to the top of Juniper Peak allow for a quick and easy walk off option to the northeast. Carrying shoes up for this trail would be worthwhile. Carry plenty of water if it is hot, as there was no water on approach or on the Juniper Peak summit during March.
External LinksRed Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM
Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association
DowClimbing.Com Red Rocks
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