| Coleman - Upper Deming Glacier Route |
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| Coleman - Upper Deming Glacier   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 48.77750°N / 121.8119°W Route Type: Mountaineering Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Walk-up
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| Page By: Steve Larson Created/Edited: Mar 19, 2001 / Apr 7, 2006 Object ID: 155420 Hits: 11658 Loading... Page Score: 87.68% - 7 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachTake the Mount Baker Trail approach as described in “Getting There” in the Baker Mountain page. Hike 2 miles from the trailhead to Kulshan Cabin.
Route DescriptionThis is the most popular route on the mountain. Go half a mile up the trail from Kulshan Cabin and take a right onto the Hog’s Back moraine that runs across the mountain. Eventually you will hit Coleman Glacier at about 6000 ft. Stay on its edge to help avoid crevasses, and head up to the bottom of the Black Buttes. Continue under the black Buttes towards the summit, and cross on the saddle between Colfax Peak and the summit. After the saddle, take the pumice ridge straight up, staying to the right of the Roman Wall. Bear right near the summit and you are there. It’s a good idea to stay on a rope when descending due to the crevasse danger. Rockfall from the Black Buttes can be a hazard, as well as avalanches from the Roman Wall and serac fall from east of Colfax peak. Most people camp above the Hog’s Back or bellow the Black Buttes. Another campsite is atop Heliotrope Ridge. This camp requires you to gain a couple of hundred extra feet, but it has the advantage of being snow-free. Beware of crevasses.
Essential GearGear depends on time of year. In winter or spring skis or snow shoes are needed. Later on, and before the first major snowfall, crampons may be useful. Ice axe, rope, and crevasse rescue gear should be carried. There are some big holes on this route. I have seen people climb it unroped, following the well-established boot track, but some people have no common sense.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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