Bald Monkey

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Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.67200°N / 118.8815°W

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.10c

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Page By: Dave Daly

Created/Edited: Dec 4, 2003 / Dec 4, 2003

Object ID: 159538

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Table of Contents

Approach

Follow the same approach used to descend into the 3rd class gully from the south side of Big Baldy. Once at the base of the gully, skirt the base (continuing to descend) to a large leaning pillar with a right facing off-width. Locate a line of bolts heading up a shallow trough, approximately 50 feet right of the right facing off-width (a dead Lodgepole pine marks the start). This is the first pitch of 'Bald Monkey'.

Route Description

Pitch #1:

Ascend the line of bolts (8 total). The first bolt is 20 off the ground and requires solid 5.9 face climbing. Once past the first bolt, the route ascends the obvious black trough (polished in sections!) and passes four bolts along the way. The crux is at bolt #6 (protects the move well), which requires solid smears on small polished chickenheads. Ten feet after the crux, locate a small recess right of the trough. Traverse over to the recess (bolt #7) and continue up above it, past the final bolt (.10a) to a two bolt anchor with rap rings. This pitch is 55 meters.

Pitch #2:

Follow a small seam (a little grassy) up and left of the anchors (5.7). Locate the first bolt approximately 20 feet past the seams' end. Conitnue straight up 5.7 slab (2 bolts) to a small right slanting ramp. Follow the ramp (5.6) to a rock terrace (pro to 1"). Ascend several small overlaps for 50 more feet (runout) to a two bolt anchor with rings and chains. From the end of this pitch, the walk off is exposed 3rd class back to the beginning of the descent trail. Total length of pitch #2 is 30 meters

*NOTE* : Caution should be used on the second pitch due to the loose patches of lichen located there.

Essential Gear

+ One 60 meter rope
+ Slings: 2' to 3'
+ Half dozen cams (small to medium sizes)
+ Nuts (BD #5 to #9)
+ 10 Quickdraws

Miscellaneous Info

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