Zenyatta Entrada, C-3+/5.9 V(FCA)

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Zenyatta Entrada, C-3+/5.9 V(FCA)

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.63940°N / 109.59824°W

Route Type: Big Wall

Season: Spring

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: C3+/ 5.8+

Grade: IV

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Page By: The Chief

Created/Edited: Apr 5, 2006 / Aug 29, 2007

Object ID: 186152

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Page Score: 88.4% - 11 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Leapfrogging on P-4 just below the small roof!

Matt slaving me at P-4.

Located in Arches National Park, Zenyatta Entrada is a Classic six pitch line on the Tower of Babel which Charlie Fowler and Eric Bjornstad put up in 1986. Originally, it went A3+ in some very soft sugar rock, i.e. Entrada. Today, it goes clean and the belay stances were cleaned up with 2ea 3" X 1/2" SS Rawl Bolts and Met SS Hangers which Matt and I did on my fourth ascent of this grand route. PLEASE DO NOT HAMMER ANY PINS as it will only destroy the very fragile rock. This route goes clean. If you can't do it clean, please come back another time when you can. Also, PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE FIXED PINS on the pin ladders. Again, this will only damage the fragile Entrada even further and create "Blown Out" holes. Enjoy the route and the incredible scenary. "What a View!"

Getting There

The Tower of Babel is located approximately four miles from the Arches National Park Entrance Station at the bottom of the hill. It is across Park Avenue and the Sheep Rock. Park off the road about an eigth of mile south of the base of the Tower which is actually located on a curve. Do not park at the base as you may watch an RV plow into the rear of your rig.

Route Description

What a view...Sheep Rock.

The Topo.

The Route.

The CRUX Third Pitch with the BEAK HOLE TRAVERSE.

Pitch 1 & 2 are obvious up the center of tower (C2-220').
P-3 entails a double Beak Hole (C3+ 140') traverse left into a 1 1/2" right facing corner crack which arches up and right to a small ledge. P-4 goes left and over a six foot roof onto a short drilled pin ladder (C2+- 95'). P-5 up left to some bolts and blown out beak holes to a right facing 1/2" flake (C3-80')to the SE shoulder. P-6 entails some more beak holes, some blown out and bolts(drilled pins) to a 5.8 move onto the lower summit (C-1/5.8-65'). If you want to add a little spice to your life, around the corner to the right, is an A4ish Jim Beyer three pitch line that isn't too tough and well protected. That is another story.

Essential Gear

On the 2nd "P".

Pulling the top bulge on the crux P-3.

1ea 60 or 70m 10.5 Wall Rope and Tag line. 4ea #4-9 Offsets, 3ea #1-4 Aliens or TCU's, 2ea #4-7 FCU's, 2ea #1-3 BD CAM, 2ea #4 BD CAM, 5ea BEAKs or SM BD PECKERs, 1ea (Thick/Thin)CAM HOOKs, 1 set of BD TALONs, 20 Draws, 45 loose Biners, 10 24"X1/2" Slings. "LEAPFROGGING" Pro will save time on lead and on the Clean.

External Links

http://www.paganmountaineering.com/moab/weather.html

Matt on top!

P-4

http://www.piquaclimber.com/past/towerofbabel/towerofbabel.htm

References

-"Selected Climbs in the Desert SW CO/UT", C.M. Burns pg.89-90
-"Desert Rock...Rock Climbs in the Natl Parks" E. Bjornstad pg.145

Images