| Buckingham (SE) Ridge Route |
Contribute  Loading... Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| Buckingham (SE) Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Wyoming, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 43.72789°N / 110.80956°W Route Type: Trad Climbing Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS) Difficulty: 45 degree snow Number of Pitches: 10 Grade: III
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: d_shorb Created/Edited: Jul 10, 2008 / Jul 15, 2008 Object ID: 420027 Hits: 860 Loading... Page Score: 87.95% - 8 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview  The route behind Josh Chrisman
 Buckingham ridge is Route B on the central feature in this photo
FA: William Buckingham, Vigil Day, August 15, 1954
This classic route climbs the major ridge on the Middle Teton's south side. It resides between the Ellingwood Couloir on the east, and the South Couloir on the west. It is the Middle's Southeast Ridge, and is found in A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range as the Southeast Ridge. It has now taken the name of one of its first ascensionists, William Buckingham, who should be well known for his many first ascents throughout the west and Alaska.
Excellent rock, lack of crowds, and the equivalent of more than 10 pitches of climbing make the Buckingham route one of the sweetest climbs in the Garnet Canyon area. This route combines the classic alpine issues of mixed terrain, route-finding, and speed with its gorgeous setting and positioning to surround the climber with a superb Teton experience. Folks considering the Exum or Petzoldt Ridge may want to also put this one into the mix.
The central face of the route provides four pitches of sustained rock climbing that spice up its otherwise low-5th class 'feel.' Climbers can create harder variations further left on the face, and throughout is many mid-5th class pitches.
Views of the southern Garnet Canyon peaks prevail, although the upper route shares the glorious views of the Grand, Disappointment, and Teewinot, with the neighboring Ellingwood Coulior and the Glacier Route.
Another great resource is the MOUNTAIN PROJECT PAGE
Please see this route's parent pages for better information on the Park, permits, the Middle, and resources for Jackson tourism.Getting ThereApproach the south side of the Middle Teton via the Lupine Meadows (Garnet Canyon) Trial. Take a lefthand (southern) turn up into the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. This takes climbers up around the eastern (Dike) toe of the mountain. Head up the large canyon, looking right for the huge Ellingwood Couloir just west of the Dike Pinnacle. This is about half way up the canyon's north side.
Begin the climb by ascending the initial cone of the Ellingwood Couloir, and heading left onto the toe of the third to fifth class rock.
Route Description  The central buttress, with cracks to choose from on the righthand side.
 Climber heads up the chimney on the upper route.
The route can be divided into four parts:
~The lower entrance of the Ellingwood Couloir and the 700 feet of 3rd to low 5th class simuclimbing on the lower buttress. (at right)
~The Central face's 4 pitches of great 5.7- 5.8 climbing that leads to the first notch. (shown at left here)
~The three pitches of easy 5th class climbing leading to the upper snow field.
~ The mid-5th class chimney and crack climbing leading to the south summit. (shown at right here)
There is also a final rappel from the south summit to the base of the final, short pitch to the top of the north (main) summit.
Descend via the Southwest Couloir
Topo and Garnet View
 Dike Pinnacle from the upper route Essential GearAlpine rack, including nuts, cams, Aliens, and runners
Crampons, ice axe, mountain boots/shoes in the early season
What shoes to use is a typical Teton question.
William Buckingham linksMt. Owen, Serendipity Arete, 5.7, C1
West Rib of Denali
Mt. Williamson in the Sierra
The Cirque of the Unclimbablesand in the AAJ
The Petit Grepon, RMNP
Caving Plummer's Pit Images
|
|
