In the middle.
Our original plan was to go trough Squak Glacier: as I remember from my previous climb, approach and climb is short and fast (in 1998 I climbed in 6 hours from parking lot to the top). Not this year. Glacier Squak with it's original route is impossible (everything is possible) to climb because of huge lines of crevices. On the other hand we have the Easton Glacier with it's crowds waking you up 12 am and is no way that you can go to sleep again because of every fifteen minutes next group of "mountain madness" is preparing for finale assault. So I decide lead my group in the middle, just exact between Easton and Squak. Although approach to the glacier and first couple of thousand feet is independent ,you can easily and quickly reach this place traversing left, Squak Glacier. So when you use Squak approach you need to traverse left using Colfax Peak as a direction.
Cheers Kris
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Cascade Volcanoes
