Prologue

Mount Jackson, Fusillade, Gunsight, Heavy Runner and Reynolds Mountains, Glacier National Park

The itinerary was shaping up nicely. We were going to climb three mountains with the GMS: Going to the Sun, with an option for Matahpi; Rising Wolf Mountain with an option for Flinsch Peak, a mountain I’ve always been keen on climbing; and Allen Mountain, a neighbor to the mighty Mount Siyeh that supposedly boasts one of the most impressive views from a Glacier summit. On our own we planned to climb Reynolds Mountain, a popular objective for many Glacier visitors.

Some may wonder, as we did, why the Siyeh climb filled up so quickly. Mount Siyeh is one of Glacier’s coveted 10,000 foot peaks, similar in a way to Colorado’s fourteeners. These are big mountains and among the most challenging in terms of distance, gain and endurance. Siyeh is the easiest and most accessible of Glacier’s “tenners,” as it can be done in one long day in a variety of routes. Glacier’s other tenners are much more difficult and require considerable time and commitment. Mount Stimson, Mount Jackson, Mount Merritt, Kintla Peak and the legendary Mount Cleveland are all much more difficult and require several days to execute. While these mountains were intriguing, we had no desire (or ability) to go after these monsters. We went after mountains that appealed to us. In terms of beauty alone, the mountains we climbed were among the most fun and rewarding we have ever climbed.

With the GMS and our added activities lined up, we proceeded to book our lodging. My arthritic neck precludes me from camping out, and knowing it was a busy time for tourists and climbers, we started securing accommodations for this trip months in advance. We had previously stayed at Glacier Trailhead Cabins and really liked the little bungalow we had (and we got the same one on this trip). We barely got in a cabin this time around. The latter half of the week was sold out. We were lucky to get a room at the massive Saint Mary Lodge for the latter half of the trip. Vernon camped out the entire week at Johnson’s campground, which was surprisingly empty for much of the week, and a very nice facility. Our arrival early in the week got him a very nice spot. The point is, if you plan on staying anywhere in or near Glacier, book as much as a year early. The amount of lodging in the St. Mary area is finite!

Glacier National Park

Returning to Glacier

Bearhat Mountain from east of Hidden Lake

We flew to Missoula, where Vernon lives. After a ninety minute flight, he picked us up and drove us to Glacier, a three hour drive. It was another ninety minutes over the incredible Logan Pass on the Going to the Sun road from West Glacier to Saint Mary. On our last trip, we spent time in a variety of spots. It would be the same this year, but all of our efforts would be based out of Saint Mary, a plan that is obviously practiced by tourists and serious climbers as well. Saint Mary was a bustling place throughout the course of the trip.

As we drove over Logan Pass, it was tempting to stop and take in the grandeur, but we knew we’d be back the next day, so we proceeded to Saint Mary and got settled in, enjoyed an early dinner and turned in fairly early. Our first climb was to be Mount Reynolds, the popular horn seen by many at their requisite stop on Logan Pass. Despite Vernon’s assurances and what I have read, the mountain looked like it could be a lengthy challenge. Both Vernon and Fred assured me it was a simple matter that would take half a day. The weather forecast was very encouraging. Clear skies and high pressure, with no possibility of weather in sight.

With some good planning, we had managed to get to Glacier and get settled in during the course of one day. It’s nice to know that this is possible and hikers and climbers can feasibly be climbing or hiking in the park within 24 hours after their departure.

Reynolds Mountain

The Glacial Horn of Reynolds Mountain

Unlike our last visit, the weather was unbelievably perfect. Our previous attempt on the mountain had been thwarted by a tummy ailment and bad weather. I had the feeling the park was doing all in its power to make a positive impression on me. So far it was succeeding handily.

Our hope was to do the popular route that encircled the mountain as it climbed to the top. Ellen and I loved scrambling in Glacier, and Reynolds would not disappoint. Vernon, however, is not that great at remembering a route until he’s done it a number of times. Once past the saddle and contouring along the west side of the mountain, we had to look for a couloir filled with typically loose Glacier Park scree and ascend it.

We found such a couloir. It was narrow and deep, but I got the impression Vernon wasn’t sure it was the right one as it only seemed vaguely familiar to him. He had only climbed the mountain once before in the previous year with the GMS. As most folks would do when you’re being led on a route, you pay more attention to the scenery and what you’re doing rather than where you’re going. Our couloir of choice had dead ended in a serious drop-off down the mountain’s precipitous north face, so we retreated back to the trail. We did see a shallow couloir further up the trail (which would turn out to be the one we should have taken), but we decided to assure our success we would climb the mountain via the renowned Southwest Talus Slopes Route.

The well worn trail led us over a slope of notorious Glacier talus to a series of rocks and couloirs that we scrambled through. This was great fun but short lived, as we soon arrived at the vast southern face of the mountain, a great sea of loose talus tilted at a steep angle. This southern face gets lots of sun and melting action, so I was no surprise to find the talus slope in all its unappealing glory. A deep, worn climber’s trail zig-zagged up the mountain and offered the most expedient and sensible route up through the scree. Sure, the scree was loose, especially if you left the trail, but it was no worse and much akin to the scree we have in Colorado’s San Juan Range, so we were very much at home on this messy slope. We had come to expect such messiness, particularly since our last visit to Glacier, and the scenery more than made up for the minor inconvenience. So the talus was really not much of a problem and we were at the base of the summit block cliffs within thirty minutes.

The route led us to the base of a dark colored rock fin to the right of the summit block, then angled to the left up through the difficulties on ledges, reaching a little cove where we took a break while other climbers descended. We then began our ascent, which involved Class 3 climbing, which we enjoyed thoroughly. For some folks, the climbing in Glacier is riveting because although the nature of the scrambling is simple, the exposure is considerable. Reynolds Mountain is no exception. Of course, the crumbly nature of Glacier’s sedimentary rock also demands total awareness and constant vigilance. We were sure to check all holds through narrow passages and watch our step on tiny, sloped ledges covered in scree.

Ellen rounds a narrow corner on Reynolds Mountain

The route climbed from the east to the west end of the cliffs on an ascending traverse, then backtracked to the east as it gained the summit ridge. The final stroll across the surprisingly roomy summit plateau was a glorious triumph for us, as Ellen and I have wanted to climb the mountain for many years, and of course the view from the top was amazing. We lingered on the summit for well over an hour, eating lunch and taking it all in. Wow! We were in Glacier National Park on a flawless summer’s day. Life couldn’t be better!

Hidden Lake and Mount Edwards from the summit of Reynolds Mountain

Across the upper valley and the Going to the Sun road was our next day’s goal, Going to the Sun Mountain, and next to it was Matahpi Peak. Being from Colorado and used to climbing at much higher altitudes, Ellen and I were charged up, barely breathing hard and ready to climb these two mountains. SP member Morgan Brown had climbed and submitted a page to SP concerning these two mountains, which got us interested in attempting them. However we could see the standard route up a diagonal couloir was filled with snow and ice, as I had feared would be the case. In my phone conversation with Randy Peters, the GMS leader of the climb, I was assured an ice axe and crampons would not be required, so apparently there was another route up the mountain. From the summit of Reynolds, I couldn’t see such a possibility. But this was Glacier, and often terrain appearing unclimable would harbor a hidden route, so anything was possible.

Descending Reynolds Mountain

Our descent from Reynolds was great fun. Scree skiing is a rare and enjoyable treat in Colorado. In Glacier it is a common thing and we enjoyed it very much on Reynolds. We returned the same route, encountering literally hundreds of tourists on our way down the boardwalk across the hanging gardens. Sure, we were tourists, too. But unlike these tourists, we had climbed Reynolds Peak and saw Glacier from a vantage reserved only for those willing to climb that impressive horn. So it would be throughout our stupendous week in Glacier.

Advice: Climbing Reynolds is a straightforward affair if exposure is not an issue for anyone in your party. Early season attempts will require an ice axe and crampons, and possibly rope and rack depending on conditions. If you execute the North Face Diagonal route, equipment may be required depending on conditions. It is recommended that the route not be attempted with the presence of ice and snow on the diagonal ledge.

Going to the Sun Mountain & Matahpi Peak

GMS climbers on top of Matahpi Peak

During a brief break, it was decided those that wished climb Matahpi could while the others waited at the saddle. Ellen and I, along with about five others, literally ran up the mountain. Four others, including Vernon, followed at a slightly slower pace. All of us were on the summit within 45 minutes. The view was incredible, particularly of Mount Siyeh to the northwest. Matahpi has an impressive 3,000 foot east face to peer off of. The forest in the drainage below is far enough below that individual trees blur into a singular patch of green, and massive Saint Mary Lake is tiny from this airy perch.

A goat trail leads the group out onto the west face of Going to the Sun

After our brief summit experience, we returned to the group and proceeded to climb Going to the Sun Mountain. A goat trail led us across a steep slope of talus beyond the point we would have begun to climb the diagonal couloir of the standard route. Randy had announced at the beginning of the day that we would not be taking the route due to icy conditions, but instead we would do another route that ascended the cliff band located half way up the mountain’s west flank.

Class 3 & 4 climbing is encountered in the cliffs on the west face of Going to the Sun

When we got to that spot, as usual, the cliffs looked uninviting and a route was not readily apparent. We had faith in our leader’s abilities, though. Again, as experienced as we are, we were only rookies when it came to climbing in Glacier. We knew routes often went where you would not expect them to go in Glacier, which was part of the excitement and fun of climbing here. So we pressed onward and we were soon using all fours to scramble up through cliffs. A number of variations were available, and Ellen and I ended up on a few Class 4 moves that were great fun. Through coves, crannies, gullies and chimneys, we continued to rise quickly through the cliffs and we were soon on the upper talus slopes of the mountain.

Denoted standard route on Going to the Sun--our route is a direct ascent further right
Photo and annotations by Morgan Brown

The most loose and treacherous mountain I’ve been on in Colorado is Potosi Peak, in the San Juans. This upper talus slope on Going to the Sun was almost as bad. This mostly untrodden slope was incredibly loose and sloppy, and rockfall incidents were plentiful. Randy had the group spread out to keep folks from getting under one another. Even so, the shout of “rock” was heard many, many times. By the time the summit ridge was reached, the group was pretty tuckered out from battling the ever moving slope and watching their every step. It was during this part of the climb I decided that the group was too large for the route, but what was done was done. Randy did not want to exclude anyone, and the group was certainly experienced and up to the task of climbing the mountain safely.

At the ridge we joined the standard route, which obviously avoided the messy west face of the mountain by ascending a cozy couloir to the ridge line. It would have been nice to ascend that way, but given the ice in the couloir, alas, it meant returning via our messy ascent route.

Ellen asecends a step on the summit ridge of Going to the Sun

A small twenty foot step in the summit ridge was our next obstacle, and a fun one indeed. The rock was solid, and to our left was the vast maw of the mountain’s precipitous east face. Some more class 3 scrambling just beneath the summit provided a fun finish and spectacular view. The group hung around the summit for almost an hour under our continuing flawless weather before facing to the ugly fact that a descent of the messy west face had to be done.

Descending the messy upper slopes of Going to the Sun

Again the group spread out for the descent and much rockfall ensued. Thankfully there were no injuries attributed to rocks, but a sprained ankle in the scree did result to our youngest member, a 13 year old girl. Once we reached the cliff band, a variety of routes were followed. Ellen and I took a different route down with a contingent of the group, which involved some fun crack scrambling.

Ellen, Kim, Vernon and others descend Class 3 & 4 terrain on Going to the Sun

Descending the cliff band on Going to the Sun

From the base of the cliffs it would still take another three hours to get back to the highway, even though it was readily visible to us below. Careful footing on the lower loose slopes ate up much time, but once we were back in the beargrass, we picked up the pace. A slower group was led out by an alternate leader and Randy took our faster group out. We arrived at the trailhead at 7:00PM, ending a fantastic twelve hour day.

Advice: Going to the Sun is an incredible mountain with a very rewarding view. However, I would not recommend the mountain on either route mentioned in this report for a large group. By large, I mean anything more than three or four people. This is one of the loosest mountains I’ve ever been on, and it is no place for a large hiking group. The mountain offers more of a challenge than you expect as well, including some Class 4 climbing. Be ready for all types of conditions, and bring an ice axe and crampons if you wish to attempt the standard route (which I recommend) since it is likely the couloir will be filled with old ice and snow. Matahpi is an easy Class 2 scramble and presents no serious difficulties, but its view of Going to the Sun is awesome and worth the short diversion.

Rising Wolf Mountain

Trail on the north side of Two Medicine Lake, Sinopah Mountain in the background

After a day of relaxation, it was early-to-rise for our longest expedition to the summit of Rising Wolf Mountain. The mountain is in the Two Medicine Area of the park, near East Glacier, an hour’s drive from Saint Mary. The route starts in the Two Medicine Campground at the mouth of Two Medicine Lake. The day was billed as a 13 mile extravaganza with an added option for those with sufficient energy to climb neighboring Flinsch Peak. This certainly rang my chimes as I always wanted to stand in the place famed landscape photographer David Meunch had stood in to get a spectacular picture of Flinsch Peak that I had always loved. Climbing Flinsch would be a fantastic bonus. We had hoped to climb it on our first visit, but wind and weather had quashed that aspiration. Today that would not be the case. Only our physical condition would stop us from reaching the summit of that classic glacial horn.

Bushwhacking Class 3 krumholtz on Rising Wolf

After one and three-quarter miles on a wide, civilized trail on the north shore of Two Medicine Lake, our route began with a scramble up a wash choked with fallen foliage. This bushwhack set the tone for most of the ascent, which was one steep, continuous bushwhack. After the gully, it was steep grassy slopes, followed by steep hard packed red talus and krumholtz, followed by krumholtz choked slopes and loose footing and third class climbing through thick brush, often using roots as holds. Three arduous hours later, we broke out of the brush and stood at the base of a series of complex cliff bands that make the South Face Route of Rising Wolf so interesting and fun.

Ascending the red cliffs of Rising Wolf's South Face Route

The next two hours involved rigorous Class 2 and 3 scrambling through the red rock that is typical of so many of Glacier’s mountains. Rock band after rock band was climbed through or around, and much care was taken so no rocks were dislodged by our group of 10. (The maximum was 12, 2 failed to show). Our leader was Ken Mottram, who had done the route once before and really loved it. I was beginning to see why. The variety of obstacles was endless and there was always something new to greet us as we climbed higher. Traditionally, a leader is in the middle or toward the end of the group as it moves along, and Ken certainly knew his place. Route choices were delegated to Del (I can’t recall his last name), obviously a super-experienced Glacier climber. He did an exemplary job, and the choices were far from dull and always engaging.

Arriving at the Diorite Sill on the East Ridge of Rising Wolf Mountain

After five hours of climbing, we reached the summit ridge. It would yet be another hour before we would be on the summit. This was one HUGE mountain. At least most of the 4,500 feet of gain was behind us now, but we were assured the rest of our day would be full of scrambling. Along the ridge we ran into numerous rock bands which we scrambled through as we forged west toward the summit. We soon arrived at the Diorite Sill, a prominent geological feature in the park. This band of black rocks is an intrusion of basalt lava, and it varies in altitude as it winds its way through Glacier’s gigantic anticline. On some mountains, it is present low on their sides. For Rising Wolf, the rock band is present just below the summit. Upon approach, the obstacle looked daunting. The ridge became a steep, towering buttress of blocky towers. The right side was almost sheer, the left (south) side appeared climable, but the route was poised precariously over a large glacial remnant, and below that were cliffs. This was obviously a good place to make sure your every move was precisely executed, as a single slip could be disastrous.

Climbing the Diorite Sill

Our group was very capable and experienced, and we proceeded with due care through the band, contouring and ascending the south face up and over very solid basaltic blocks. This was one of the most exhilarating parts of our trip, and made the summit reward seem that much more pertinent.

Ellen and me on Rising Wolf's summit, looking west toward Flinsch Peak (foreground) and Mount Stimson, one of Glacier's giant "tenners" (background)
Impressive Mount Phillips is to the left of Flinsch

The view, of course, was absolutely incredible. Of all the mountains we have climbed, Rising Wolf is certainly a classic, and certainly among the first we would recommend for climbing in Glacier (providing you feel experienced enough to do so). And of course to the west, there it was: Flinsch Peak, and below it, the long and oval Old Man Lake, the result of classic glacial carving. The camera shutter was definitely smoking.

Traverse with incredible views from Rising Wolf to Flinsch Peak

It took six hours to reach Rising Wolf’s dramatic summit, yet our day was far from over. After a well deserved break, we moved on. It was 1PM. Thankfully, the weather continued to remain flawless, for the remainder of the alpine route followed a very exposed ridge line. A storm would be devastating on this stretch.

At the low point of the exciting ridge traverse from Rising Wolf Mountain

Initial descent from the summit involved more fabulous scree skiing, followed be a leisurely stroll along a broad ridge between two glorious glacial valleys. This has got to be the most inspiring walk in the high country I have ever experienced! The views are breathtaking, and the drops off the north side are mind boggling. It’s nothing more than a stroll in terms of difficulty though, until the ridge narrows. A few of the group, including Ellen, found a short Class 4 scramble at the end of a buttress. I, along with others found a gully to descend (brief Class 3) before rejoining and crossing the low point of the ridge.

Mighty Flinsch Peak's East Face dwarfs the group

The route then contoured out to the south side following narrow tundra ledges on a steep slope before making a direct ascent up through a band of rock to regain the ridge top. Another long, casual stroll followed as we approached Flinsch Peak. Suddenly the impressive but small mountain (as seen from Rising Wolf) was impressively large. It was approaching 4PM. Thanks to our glorious weather, we were able to enjoy this long day of sunshine in a relaxed manner. But the long day and many hours of climbing had taken its toll on the entire group and no one was in any shape to tackle Flinsch. Ellen and I wanted to climb it badly, but conceded we were too exhausted and we didn’t want to hold the group up. Additionally, Vernon’s feet were killing him and slowing his progress substantially. From Dawson Pass, it would be at least two hours at a sprinting pace back to the cars through bear country. It was quickly decided that we would forego Flinsch in order to get back to civilization before sunset. Thank God for Glacier’s long, long summer days!

Descent through krumholtz to the Dawson Pass trail

Del’s excellent route finding got us through the krumholtz, which slowed Vern’s progress. It was 5:00PM when we reached the trail and started our spirited descent back to the campground. We addressed any curious bears that may have been in the area at regular intervals, mostly with shouts of “hey bear!” We made good time, arriving back at the vehicles at 7:00PM. According to Ellen’s GPS unit, it was a 14 mile day, 4,500 feet of gain, half of that time scrambling. It was certainly worth it!

Profile of Rising Wolf Mountain from the south (Grizzly Peak)
Photo by Vernon Garner

Advice: This has got to be one of Glacier’s best climbs, especially when you consider accessibility. You get lots of reward for the effort, as evidenced by the photos you see in this report. Experience in exposed Class 3 climbing is highly recommended, and be prepared for a very long day. There is no water on the route, so plan accordingly and do not execute this route in anything less than flawless weather. Bad weather on this route would be a nightmare. Previous experience climbing in Glacier is recommended, as this route is rarely used compared to other routes, and descents should not be attempted down any other south face slope of Rising Wolf, due to hidden cliffs below. Either descend your ascent route or descend from Dawson Pass. Going with the GMS certainly improves your chances at success and reduces your chances of losing time getting lost or finding the route up the complex south face.

Allen Mountain

Steep terrain just above timberline on Allen Mountain

We probably should have climbed higher, but it made no difference. We ended up following a goat trail, common in Glacier hiking and rendezvoued with the route further up the slope as we rounded to the east side of the buttress. Along this terrain, it was hard to believe we were on an actual route. Such is the nature of climbing in Glacier. Above and below us were towering cliffs. The crumbly slope we traversed was amazingly sleep, held together by the plants that managed to take root there. A scramble up a steep and shallow gully had some butt puckering moments for a number of our group. Two guys from Indiana, a father and son, had been hiking together, but now the father was lagging behind. He had done the climb before and was raving about it, but I was beginning to wonder if he was going to be alright this time around.

Allen Mountain (summit is center dome) and Snow Moon Lake

The goat trail contoured around into a draw, going by gorgeous Schwab Falls and into a narrow basin dotted by two gorgeous alpine lakes, separated by a rock bench and maybe 80 feet of elevation. Yet each lake had its own definitive character, even in color. We took a break nearby the lakes before resuming our ascent across a great slope of tundra as we climbed southward toward the mountain. A great buttress of cliffs loomed above, and only got much bigger as we approached the base. The summit was off to the right and looked unassuming and anticlimactic.

The massive 4,200 foot north face of Mount Siyeh and Cracker Lake, due south from Allen Mountain

We took another break at the beginning of the buttress, spotting climbers doing a long day’s climb of Mount Wynn to the east. They had completed Wynn and were on the long ridgeline bound for Mount Siyeh. Their day would be much longer than ours.

Class 3 & 4 scrambling on Allen Mountain's north face

The next hour was nothing but fun and engaging, often exposed Class 3 climbing. The dramatic photos in this report illustrate the conditions encountered in climbing this outstanding Glacier peak. There were obstacles galore, and even though Steve had done the route before, we were still doing some route finding, and there were a number of variations. There was no doubt the group was having a grand time, and the view grew more spectacular with every foot of altitude gained. Steve had boasted that this climb was a GMS favorite, and it was obvious to see why.

Climbing the beginning of the Great Cleft

After climbing on the south side of the buttress, we found ourselves once again on the north side and at the beginning of a feature called “the great cleft.” The Edwards climbing guide makes the obstacle sound formidable, and for those not used to the exposure of Glacier’s routes, it could be a challenge. But the cleft is a giant groove in the cliff face, and very cozy to climb in and not really inherently dangerous. The rock is solid, so footing is good as long as you are wary of the loose material littered about. At times it was better to leave the cleft and scramble up the exposed slope, but difficulty never exceeded Class 3, especially if you stayed in the cleft.

Ellen ascends Class 3 terrain above the Great Cleft

Above the cleft, the ridge mellowed and it was a pleasant Class 2 scramble to a high point in the ridge visible from the lakes below. I took this opportunity to take a side trip to a snow bank and refill my water. The day was exceedingly hot, especially for Glacier. There were no clouds and the sun was pounding down. In the jungle, everyone in the group had been sweating a lot, and I had personally gobbled up most of my water. The snow provided adequate replenishment of my supply. Several others did the same before finishing the nice talus strewn ridge stroll to the top.

Mount Gould from Allen Mountain, looking west

My! What a view! This view is certainly amazing, and really defies adequate explanation. The pictures in this report are exclusive to SP and to my knowledge, views from this mountain are to be found nowhere else on the ‘net. This is certainly one of the best mountain views I have ever seen in my mountaineering experience!

The heat on top was unprecedented, especially for Glacier. It was almost unbearable, and some biting flies were making the most of the occasion. Steve had announced that the group had the option to descend via a shortcut, or descend down to the aqua-colored Cracker Lake for a longer day if they so desired. It was tempting to go that route, as it dropped down beneath the massive and unbelievable 4,000 foot north face of Mount Siyeh. This face has only been climbed twice, and both attempts involved unplanned multiple bivouacs. The walk from Cracker Lake was undoubtedly gorgeous too, but Ellen and I agreed that a shorter descent was in order. All of this vigorous climbing was catching up to us.

Beginning the descent of Allen Mountain's north face

Two experienced members of the group decided to descend via Cracker Lake (a 15 mile day, total). And then there were 8. Our man from Indiana was doing better, and having descended the shorter route, offered to guide us down. Steve had not done the descent route previously, but had heard about it and was willing to have our Indiana man and his boy direct us accordingly. The highly recommended route’s key was finding an avalanche gully, which was presently out of view. This gully would grant our group access to the trail rounding the lakes below.

We backtracked the ridge a bit to our descent point, and we aimed for a red gully far below. We were about to descend 4,000 feet in less than a mile and a half! Some initial talus skiing soon ended and we were forced to descend more carefully as the debris was often hiding hard strata beneath, preventing any rapid leaps of faith into knee deep scree. Descent of this massive slope was time consuming as we were traversing and contouring downward. I managed to find pockets of deep scree to hasten my descent, following our young Indiana leader (his dad brought up the rear).

Scrambling down the gully was a treat. There was water present, so slipping was a possibility, but staying on dry grippy rock, the scrambling was fun, and this got us below a band of cliffs. A long contour followed. We were careful not to drop too soon and get tangled in more Glacier jungle. When we found the obvious avalanche gully, the evidence of destruction was awesome. This gully saw action routinely in the winter, and descending it was a constant Class 3 scramble down rock walls, roots and branches, including a brief but sheer Class 4 wall.

Descending Allen Mountain

As we stayed in the narrowing drainage and a trickle of water appeared, we entered Glacier jungle every bit as dense as the foliage we encountered in the morning. I kept expecting to see T-Rex to march through as this landscape seemed primeval in character. At one point we lost track of the group and we had to reunite by shouting, as the foliage was well over our heads and obstructed our view entirely. We suddenly emerged onto a broad and dusty horse trail and we hastened ourselves for the mile and a half march back to our starting point. The heat was stifling, an unpleasant side affect of the gorgeous weather we had wished for. But we weren’t complaining. Due to the flawless weather, we had an absolutely perfect trip to Glacier with all goals attained!

Advice: The Allen Mountain climb described here is only 8 miles round trip, but be prepared for a wide variety of terrain and brush up on your jungle bushwhacking skills! Exposed Class 3 climbing is encountered on the ascent of the “great cleft.” This mountain is a great short outing with a rewarding view that seems generous for the overall effort involve, so it’s certainly worth your time. The route follows goat trails and is obscure to say the least, particularly the descent. If you can go with someone who has done the route before, do so. At least get tips from someone who has done the route before proceeding!

Epilogue

Allen Mountain and Glacier, looking west

Thanks for reading this lengthy tome about our second foray to Glacier. Hopefully it was entertaining AND informative for those who may visit Glacier in the future. Millions see Glacier every year from the roads and trails. But really, the way to really see Glacier is from its mountains. This fact is obvious to SP members, but to climb Glacier’s mountains requires a bit of knowledge and humility, for they are unlike any other mountains in terms of character, and there are other factors to consider (such as bears, who call Glacier home). There’s plenty of folks on SP who’ll be glad to help you plan your trip to Glacier. Despite any problems you may encounter in planning or executing your trip, rest assured your efforts are definitely worthwhile! Glacier will not disappoint you, even in bad weather.

To sum up: Plan early, especially for lodging. Joining and climbing with the Glacier Mountaineering Club is a plus, but do it as early in the year as possible. What a great group of people! Depending on the nature of the routes you plan to try, take the equipment you need and plan for the unexpected. During the summer, warm winter clothing is required at the minimum. In any other season, warm winter clothing AND the suitable equipment will be required. Also book your flights to and from the area well in advance. You’ll be surprised by the popularity of the flights to this region. There are a few good places to eat in the Saint Mary area. All are very good. Dining in East Glacier and Many Glacier is also excellent.

SPECIAL NOTES

I represented SummitPost and spoke briefly at the 2006 GMS Mountaineering Week Luncheon. In this photo in the front row on the right is Ken Mottram, our leader on Rising Wolf. You'll see me next to him and Ellen next to me. Directly above Ellen in the back and barely visible is Vernon.

In late 2006, a huge fire near Split Mountain erupted and almost wiped out Saint Mary. That fall, early torrential rains destroyed the Going to the Sun road and flooded Many Glacier. The extent of the destruction and how long repairs will take has yet to be determined. No doubt recovery will take a long time, and obviously access to the mountains described herein is restricted and problematic at best. Be sure to consult the provided links concerning these matters during your planning.

Recent Flood Damage West Side

Recent Flood Damage East Side

All photos for this report are by the author unless otherwise noted in the captions.

For an account of our visit to Glacier in less than ideal weather, see this report: Colorado Rookies in Glacier National Park

Here are some links that will help you in planning your trip to Glacier:

Glacier National Park on SummitPost
The definitive source of information on the internet is right here at SummitPost, expertly presented by SP member saintgrizzly

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Glacier National Park Web Page

MOUNTAINS ON SP FEATURED IN THIS REPORT

Allen Mountain

Reynolds Mountain

Going to the Sun Mountain

Matahpi Peak

Rising Wolf Mountain

BUSINESS ESTABLISHMENTS USED ON THIS TRIP

Glacier Trailhead Cabins

Saint Mary Lodge & Resort

Johnson's Motel, Restaurant, RV and Tent Campground

Two Sisters Cafe

Park Cafe
Information only

Images